Exploring Kolhapur & Khidrapur's Ancient Temples : Two-Day Motorcycle Journey

Two-Day Motorcycle Journey: Exploring Kolhapur & Khidrapur's Ancient Temples

There's something incredibly liberating about the open road, the rumble of a motorcycle beneath you, and the promise of ancient temples waiting to be discovered. After years of planning and multiple failed attempts, my wife and I finally embarked on our first motorcycle journey together—a 650km adventure through Western Maharashtra that would test our endurance, patience, and relationship in equal measure.

Planning Our Long-Awaited Journey

The Kolhapur trip had been in our plans for years, primarily because my wife wanted to visit the revered Mahalakshmi Temple. Our previous attempts using public transportation had fallen through, so when I purchased my Triumph Scrambler 400X in May, it seemed like the perfect opportunity to break in the new bike and fulfill our travel aspirations simultaneously.

We meticulously planned our route, destinations, and even coordinated with a friend in Kolhapur who was working from home. Taking the first weekend of June (1st and 2nd) and the following Monday off work, we prepared for our adventure. The monsoon hadn't yet arrived, creating ideal conditions for my bike's break-in journey.

I was particularly excited to test the Scrambler's capabilities, even though I hadn't yet completed its first service. At one point during our journey, I hit the 7500 RPM limiter and noticed a small spanner icon blinking on the console—a gentle reminder from my new mechanical companion that it was due for its first check-up. Despite this, the bike performed admirably throughout our 650km journey.

Day 1: The Journey Begins

Early Morning Departure

We kicked off our journey at the crack of dawn, around 6 AM, having packed our bags the night before. My Triumph was equipped with a newly installed top rack, while my wife carried a shoulder bag. Our first stop came at the Shell Petrol Pump after Khed-Shivapur toll (one advantage of traveling by two-wheeler: no toll charges for the entire journey!). A quick cup of tea later, we continued our 80km stretch on NH4.

We took another break to stretch our legs at JB Pump (Bharat Petrol) near Anavadi. Here, I attempted to install a mobile phone holder that I hadn't properly set up beforehand—the only aspect of our trip I hadn't planned in advance. This minor oversight would come back to haunt us during navigation later.

The Speed Challenge and Navigation Mishaps

Near Satara, I couldn't resist testing the Scrambler's capabilities, briefly hitting 125 kmph as the RPM limiter light began blinking—a gentle reminder that the first service was overdue. The thrill of the speed was exhilarating for both of us, but it also led to our first navigational mishap. In my enthusiasm, I completely missed the Satara exit where we had planned to stop for breakfast at Chandravilas Resto.

"You know, as the rider, it's your responsibility to pay attention to the exits," came the inevitable lecture from the pillion seat. And so began our first lesson in motorcycle trip dynamics: the driver gets blamed for all navigational errors, regardless of who's supposed to be watching the map. It's apparently in the fine print of the relationship contract.

We eventually settled for a late breakfast at McDonald's past Karad, where we stretched our legs and refreshed ourselves. While the Scrambler was performing admirably, I was beginning to realize its limitations as a long-distance two-up touring bike—my wife was struggling a bit with comfort on the pillion seat.

Reaching Kolhapur: Palace and Fort Exploration

By early afternoon, we reached our destination—The Pavillion Hotel in Kolhapur. After checking in, a quick power nap, and lunch (which was reasonably priced), we set off to explore The New Shahu Palace, located conveniently close to our accommodation. We spent about two hours admiring the historical darbar, sword collections, cannons, and paintings—a wonderful first taste of Kolhapur's rich heritage.

Our next stop was Panhala Fort, about 40 minutes away accounting for traffic. As a fort enthusiast, I had long wanted to visit this historically significant 300-year-old structure. While most visitors seemed to be weekend picnickers rather than history buffs (I estimate less than 1% were there for the historical significance), we found a peaceful corner of the fort where we could sit and reflect for an hour.

What's special about Panhala is that you can drive inside the fort itself, making it accessible for various types of visitors. Most people were there for weekend picnics, but I was drawn to the quieter areas where I could appreciate the historical significance. There was some construction happening on one side of the fort, so we gravitated toward the more peaceful sections.

The ancient trees, massive in size and age, created a tranquil atmosphere, and my wife even collected an orchid growing from one of these venerable giants. This tranquil area attracted mostly evening walkers seeking peace. I could have spent many more hours exploring the doors and fortifications, but time constraints meant we had to move on.

Evening Culinary Delights

Returning to Kolhapur by evening, we met up with my friend for dinner at DEHAATI, where we indulged in an authentic Kolhapuri mutton thali. The crowded restaurant was testament to its quality, and my wife particularly enjoyed the local flavors—she seemed to appreciate the authentic Kolhapuri cuisine even more than I did. With full stomachs and tired bodies, we returned to our hotel to recharge for the next day's adventures, setting our alarms for another early start.

Day 2: Temples and Unexpected Detours

Mahalakshmi Temple Darshan

Rising early at 5:30 AM, we headed to the centuries-old Mahalakshmi Temple—the primary motivation for our Kolhapur visit. Despite the 40-minute queue, the experience was worth it. While my wife focused on the religious aspects, I was captivated by the temple's Hemadpanthi architecture and intricate carvings—a style of construction I've always admired.

After the temple visit, we enjoyed breakfast at my friend's house, returned to the hotel to freshen up, and checked out to continue our journey.

The Crown Jewel: Khidrapur's Kopeshwar Temple

Our next destination was the highlight of our trip: the Kopeshwar Temple in Khidrapur, located at the Maharashtra-Karnataka border beside the Krishna River. This centuries-old marvel remained relatively unknown until a movie song was shot there, bringing it some attention.

The Swargamandapa with its open top, separate Actor-Pendal, hall, ancient pillars, and carvings of deities and artistic figures in various poses were truly captivating. We spent almost two hours exploring the temple, where the interior remained remarkably cool despite the summer heat outside.

I must admit, we found some amusement in listening to the tourist guides sharing what seemed to be largely self-invented stories—exchanging knowing smiles as we overheard these creative interpretations. What makes this temple truly unique is that it's the only Shiva temple in India featuring an idol of Vishnu, showcasing an unusual religious harmony.

The craftsmanship of the carvings surpassed any temple I've previously visited. I spent an hour simply touching and examining these intricate works of art, while we collectively took hundreds of photos. The assortment of deity idols around and inside the temple speaks volumes about the artistic vision of its creators. We also sampled some local namkeen food before continuing our journey.

Riverside Relaxation

After the temple visit, we stopped at the Krishna River, just half a kilometer from Khidrapur. Local boys were swimming in the surprisingly plentiful waters, despite it being the height of summer. We enjoyed a peaceful interlude, dipping our hands and feet in the cool water and capturing a few photographs before continuing our journey.

The Unexpected Adventure: Getting Lost

We had initially planned to visit Narsobachi Wadi Temple but abandoned the idea upon seeing the massive crowds at the parking area. This decision led to an unexpected detour when we missed a turn in Jaysingpur and found ourselves heading toward Sangli instead.

By the time we realized our mistake, we were committed to a much longer route via Ashta and Uran Islampur, where the roads were under heavy construction. What followed was nearly two hours of impromptu off-roading on my street-oriented Scrambler—a test of both the bike's capabilities and our relationship's resilience.

"You know, if you had just asked me to check the map earlier..." began what would become a recurring theme for the next several hours. I wisely chose to focus on the road instead of responding.

This navigation mishap was a perfect illustration of the unwritten rule of motorcycle touring as a couple: never ask your female partner to handle the maps unless you're prepared for some off-road adventure and a detailed explanation of how, as the rider, you're responsible for any wrong turns. Just as valuable a lesson as any historical fact we learned that day.

The Challenging Return

Our detour cost us precious time, and we hit the Sunday return traffic on NH4, further complicated by extensive road construction all the way to Satara. What should have been a straightforward journey became a test of endurance as we battled traffic, heat, constant low-speed riding, and dehydration.

We made several stops to rest and hydrate, thankful that we had at least fueled up before leaving Khidrapur that morning, so fuel wasn't a concern. By the time we reached Satara, exhaustion was setting in, but we decided to push through to reach home. We took several more breaks and had a few snacks along the way to keep our energy up, finally arriving late that night.

The Sunday traffic and construction issues were much more noticeable on the return journey compared to our outbound trip when the lighter traffic had allowed us to move more freely. This stark contrast was a reminder of how timing can dramatically impact the same route.

Reflections on Our First Motorcycle Journey Together

This 650km, two-day adventure taught us much about motorcycle touring as a couple. My wife, new to being a pillion rider, struggled with comfort and fatigue, particularly in her legs—something we'll need to address for future trips. The Triumph Scrambler 400X, while an excellent motorcycle in many ways, perhaps isn't ideal for long-distance two-up touring without some modifications.

Despite the challenges—navigation mishaps, unexpected detours, construction delays, and physical discomfort—we both agreed that the journey was incredibly rewarding. The ancient temples with their remarkable architecture, the peaceful moments by the Krishna River, the thrill of the open road, and even our shared problem-solving during the unplanned off-road adventure all contributed to an unforgettable experience.

We're already planning our next two-wheeled adventure, but next time we'll be better prepared with proper gear, cameras, and perhaps someone to yell "Action!" as we set off.

Accommodation Review: The Pavillion Hotel, Kolhapur

For those planning a similar trip, The Pavillion Hotel proved to be an excellent choice. Located approximately 3km from Mahalakshmi Mandir and 2km from the New Palace, it offered convenient access to Kolhapur's main attractions. The service was attentive, the food delicious, and the atmosphere quiet and peaceful. Ample parking space and greenery added to its appeal, making it an ideal base for motorcycle travelers.

Travel Tips for This Route

Season

We traveled in early June, just before the monsoon. The weather was generally pleasant with dry conditions, though afternoons could be quite hot. Evenings brought a nice cool breeze, and occasional clouds provided some relief from the sun. It's an excellent time for this journey, though I'd recommend avoiding afternoon riding if possible.

Road Conditions

The road quality varies significantly along this route. Until Satara, conditions are generally good, but beyond that point, there were numerous diversions and construction zones extending past Karad. Sunday evening traffic can be particularly challenging, so plan your return timing carefully if possible.

For Motorcycle Travelers

1. Pillion Comfort: If traveling two-up, consider adding a comfort seat or cushion, especially for longer journeys.
2. Navigation: Mount your phone securely before starting your journey—trying to install a holder mid-trip proved frustrating.
3. Hydration: Carry more water than you think you'll need, especially in summer.
4. Breaks: Plan for regular breaks every 60-90 minutes to prevent fatigue.
5. Traffic Planning: If possible, avoid Sunday evening return journeys when traffic heading back to major cities is at its peak.

Looking back, despite the exhaustion and occasional disagreements about navigation, this journey has only strengthened our resolve to explore more of India's hidden treasures on two wheels. There's simply no better way to experience the diverse landscapes, ancient architecture, and cultural richness of our country than with the wind in your face and the freedom of the open road.

Next time though, I'll definitely remember who's supposed to be checking the map.