Ancient Wonders: Motorcycle Journey to Ellora Caves & Devgiri Fort

Chasing Ancient Dreams: A Motorcycle Adventure to Ellora and Devgiri

Since childhood, I've been fascinated by ancient temples and historical structures. There's something mysteriously captivating about standing in a place where countless generations have stood before, marveling at the same stone carvings and architectural wonders. The Ellora Caves near Sambhaji Nagar (formerly Aurangabad) and the mighty Devgiri Fort had been on my bucket list for years, particularly the legendary Kailasa Temple—a massive structure carved from a single rock that I had first seen in a school textbook over two decades ago.

This February, that childhood dream transformed into reality as two fellow riders and I embarked on a weekend motorcycle adventure to these historical marvels. I rode my Triumph Scrambler 400X while my companions mounted their Triumph Speed 400s. We deliberately planned our trip for Friday and Saturday to avoid the weekend crowds that often flood these popular destinations.

Day 1: Pune to Ellora Caves - Journey Through Time

The Highway Ride

We kickstarted our journey from Pune at approximately 6:45 AM, with the cool morning air providing perfect riding conditions. The 230-kilometer route to Sambhaji Nagar took us through Shikrapur, Shirur, Ahilya Nagar, and past the famous Shani Shingnapur temple. The smooth highways allowed us to maintain a comfortable cruising speed between 80-100 kmph, occasionally touching 125 kmph on open stretches.

We took several short breaks for hydration, tea, and stretching, making the journey enjoyable rather than exhausting. The Scrambler 400X handled the highway brilliantly, offering a comfortable riding position even after hours in the saddle. By noon, we reached Sambhaji Nagar, making good time despite our relaxed pace.

Hotel Panchavati: Our Base Camp

Hotel Panchavati served as our home for this adventure—a budget-friendly option that exceeded expectations. For ₹2,200, we got a room with an extra bed and breakfast included. While somewhat compact, the room was clean and well-maintained. The hotel's proximity to Baba Petrol Pump (just a 2-minute walk) made it conveniently located, and the on-site restaurant served delicious food at reasonable prices.

After checking in, we enjoyed a satisfying lunch at the hotel restaurant before taking a short but essential power nap to rejuvenate ourselves for the afternoon exploration.

Ellora Caves: Confronting Magnificence

By 3:30 PM, we were at the Ellora Caves complex, approximately 30 kilometers from our hotel. On the way, we passed Devgiri Fort (another historical gem we'd save for day 2) but remained focused on our primary destination. The afternoon timing proved strategic—the tourist crowds had thinned considerably, allowing us a more intimate experience with these ancient wonders.

Practical Information for Visitors:

• Operating Hours: 7:00 AM to 6:00 PM (daily)

• Entry Fees:

  • ₹40 per person for Indians (children under 15 enter free)
  • ₹40 per person for visitors from SAARC countries
  • ₹600 per person for other foreign tourists
  • ₹25 for video camera usage

The Magnificent Kailasa Temple (Cave 16)

We made a beeline for Cave 16—the iconic Kailasa Temple—the largest monolithic rock-cut temple in the world. As I stood before this colossal structure, emotions flooded through me. The textbook image that had captivated my young mind decades ago was now before me in its full, three-dimensional grandeur.

The sheer scale of achievement is mind-boggling: ancient artisans carved this entire temple complex from top to bottom out of a single rock, removing an estimated 400,000 tons of stone to create a structure that stands 32 meters high, 78 meters long, and 62 meters wide. The thought processes, engineering calculations, and artistic vision required for such an undertaking are almost beyond comprehension.

We spent nearly an hour exploring every corner of this magnificent temple, marveling at the intricately carved deities, mythological scenes, and architectural elements. Each pillar tells a story; each wall section captures a piece of ancient wisdom. The precision of the carvings, considering the tools available in the 8th century, left us speechless.

Eventually, we climbed the small hill formed by the original rock from which the temple was carved, gaining a bird's-eye perspective of the complex. From this vantage point, the brilliance of the ancient architects became even more apparent—the perfect symmetry, the thoughtful layout, and the harmonious integration with the surrounding landscape. We sat in contemplative silence for 15 minutes, trying to absorb the magnitude of what we were witnessing.

Beyond Kailasa: The Multi-Faith Heritage of Ellora

Though Kailasa Temple was undoubtedly the highlight, Ellora comprises 34 caves representing three different faiths—Buddhism, Hinduism, and Jainism—spanning over five centuries. We explored as many as time permitted, appreciating this tangible testament to India's long tradition of religious coexistence.

The Buddhist caves showcase elaborate prayer halls and meditation chambers with serene Buddha statues. The Hindu caves beyond Kailasa contain powerful depictions of Shiva, Vishnu, and other deities. The Jain caves, with their polished surfaces and meticulous attention to ornamental detail, reflect the spiritual aesthetics of Jainism.

By the time we finished our exploration, the sun was beginning its descent, casting a golden glow on the ancient stone structures. The dropping temperature made the experience even more pleasant after the afternoon heat.

Grishneshwar Temple: An Ancient Jyotirlinga

Just five minutes from the Ellora complex stands the revered Grishneshwar Temple, housing one of the twelve Jyotirlingas (sacred abodes of Lord Shiva). As darkness fell, we visited this ancient shrine, completing our day's spiritual journey with a darshan of the Jyotirlinga. It's important to note that male devotees are required to remove their shirts, vests, and undershirts (baniyans) before entering the temple's inner sanctum, in accordance with traditional customs.

This dress code is strictly enforced, so visitors should be prepared for this requirement. The temple, rebuilt in its current form in the 18th century by Ahilyabai Holkar, features beautiful carvings in the Maratha architectural style. After a brief but meaningful visit, we began our return journey to the hotel, riding carefully through the darkness.

Day 2: Devgiri Fort - Engineering Marvel of Medieval India

Dawn at the Fortress

Our second day began early as we set out for Devgiri Fort, just a 15-kilometer, 20-minute ride from our hotel. We had hoped to witness the sunrise from the fort's summit, but learned upon arrival that the gates open at 6:30 AM. Despite this minor setback, we were among the first visitors of the day.

After purchasing tickets and camera permissions (note: tripods are surprisingly not allowed inside, though we inadvertently brought one in), we entered the fortress at 6:40 AM. The early morning light created a magical atmosphere, illuminating the ancient stonework with a soft glow while the air remained refreshingly cool.

Architectural Brilliance of Devgiri

Devgiri Fort, also known as Daulatabad Fort, stands as a testament to medieval military engineering. Built on a conical hill, it was considered one of the most powerful fortresses of medieval India. The Yadava dynasty established it in the 12th century, and it later served as a capital when Muhammad bin Tughluq briefly attempted to shift his capital from Delhi.

We began our exploration at the main gate, progressively passing through a series of ingenious defensive structures. Each gate, bastion, and wall segment reveals thoughtful strategic design. The Char Minar (Four Pillars), a distinctive structure within the fort, captured our attention with its elegant proportions and historical significance.

As three engineers, we found ourselves constantly questioning: How did they construct such precise structures without modern tools and technology? How did they transport massive stone blocks up this steep hill? How did they calculate the perfect angles and proportions? Some questions remained unanswered, deepening our respect for the brilliant minds behind these ancient marvels.

The most impressive feature of the fort is perhaps its unique defense system. The fortress is protected by three concentric walls, a moat that once contained crocodiles, and a series of complex, confusing passages designed to disorient attackers. The famous "Andheri" (dark passage)—a pitch-black, spiral passage that could be easily defended by a small number of soldiers against a large invading force—stands as evidence of sophisticated military thinking.

It took us approximately an hour to reach the summit, navigating steep stairs carved through giant stones. The palace, built atop a naturally fortified hill with artificially straightened sides surrounded by a moat, demonstrates how thoroughly the builders leveraged natural geography for defense.

From the top, the view of the surrounding countryside was spectacular. The Char Minar looked particularly impressive from this elevated vantage point. We spent time examining the massive cannons positioned strategically around the summit, silent sentinels of a bygone era of warfare.

The Return Journey

After descending from the fort, we returned to our hotel for a quick rest before beginning our journey back to Pune around noon. For variety, we chose a different return route: Gangapur - Nevasa - Shrirampur - Sangamner - Narayangaon - Rajgurunagar - Chakan - Pune.

This 290-kilometer path took approximately 7 hours, including a lunch stop at Hotel Silver Spoon in Shrirampur (highly recommended), and several refreshment breaks for sugarcane juice, lemon juice, and roadside guavas. The route included about 15 kilometers of off-road sections due to ongoing construction, which the Scrambler 400X handled effortlessly.

Traffic grew increasingly dense as we approached Pune, with the final stretch from Chakan to home taking nearly two hours due to congestion. We parted ways at Chakan, each heading to our respective homes, bringing our historical expedition to a satisfying conclusion.

Reflections on Riding Gear and Motorcycle Performance

Essential Riding Gear

For this journey, my riding gear selection focused on balancing protection with comfort for Maharashtra's February weather:

1. Helmet: MT Thunder3 Pro Blaze - Provided excellent protection with good ventilation for the warm afternoons.
2. Jacket: Rynox Air GT 4 - The mesh construction offered adequate airflow during midday heat while maintaining protection.
3. Pants: Rynox Air GT Pant - Complemented the jacket with similar ventilation and protection characteristics.
4. Footwear: RE E39 Riding Shoes - Offered ankle protection while remaining comfortable for walking around the caves and fort.
5. Gloves: Viaterra Holeshot Pro Riding Gloves - Provided good grip and protection without causing excessive sweating.
6. Watch: Casio G-Shock G-5600UE-1DR - Reliable timekeeper with good readability in various lighting conditions.

Triumph Scrambler 400X Performance

The Scrambler 400X proved to be an excellent companion for this heritage tour. Its comfortable ergonomics made the long highway stretches enjoyable, while its suspension handled the occasional rough patches with ease. The bike maintained a steady cruising speed of 80-100 kmph without strain, with plenty of reserve power for overtaking when needed.

Fuel efficiency remained consistent at approximately 30-32 km/l despite varied riding conditions, and the motorcycle showed no signs of stress despite the back-to-back days of long-distance riding. The upright seating position allowed for good visibility in traffic and reduced fatigue during the journey.

The bike's handling on the twisty sections near Ellora was precise and confidence-inspiring, while still offering stability on the open highway. Overall, the Scrambler 400X reinforced its reputation as a versatile machine capable of both touring and city riding.

Tips for Fellow Travelers

If you're planning a similar expedition to Ellora Caves and Devgiri Fort, here are some recommendations based on our experience:

1. Timing: Weekdays or Saturdays are preferable to Sundays to avoid crowds, especially at Ellora.
2. Duration: Allocate a minimum of two days for this trip; three would be ideal to explore without rushing.
3. Photography: Bring a good camera with wide-angle capabilities to capture the massive structures adequately. Early morning light at Devgiri and late afternoon light at Ellora offer the best photography conditions.
4. Footwear: Wear comfortable walking shoes as both sites involve considerable walking on uneven surfaces.
5. Hydration: Carry sufficient water, especially during warmer months, as exploration involves physical exertion.
6. Accommodation: Hotel Panchavati offers good value; book in advance during peak tourist season.
7. Cultural Respect: Both Ellora and Grishneshwar Temple are religious sites; dress modestly and follow local customs.
8. Local Guide: Consider hiring a knowledgeable guide at Ellora to truly appreciate the historical and cultural significance of the caves.
9. Route Planning: The highways are generally good, but factor in occasional traffic near urban centers, particularly Chakan.
10. Fuel Stops: Petrol pumps are readily available along the route; no need for additional fuel containers.

Conclusion: When Stone Tells Stories

Our motorcycle journey to Ellora and Devgiri was more than just a weekend getaway—it was a pilgrimage to witness India's artistic and engineering heritage. The Kailasa Temple at Ellora stands as perhaps the most ambitious sculptural project ever undertaken, while Devgiri Fort represents the pinnacle of medieval military architecture.

Both sites left us with a profound sense of admiration for our ancestors. They created these monuments without modern technology, working with basic tools, immense patience, and extraordinary vision. Their achievements humble us, making our modern engineering accomplishments seem modest by comparison.

For motorcycle enthusiasts with an appreciation for history and culture, this route offers a perfect blend of enjoyable riding and intellectual stimulation. The smooth highways, the historical wonders, and the spiritual ambiance create an experience that satisfies both the rider and the seeker within.

As we rode back to our everyday lives, we carried with us not just photographs but a deep connection to our cultural roots—a connection formed by touching the same stones that countless generations have touched, by standing in the same spaces where history unfolded, and by experiencing firsthand the genius of ancient India.

The mountains may erode, empires may fall, but the stories carved in stone at Ellora and Devgiri continue to inspire, reminding us that true greatness transcends time.